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Personal experiences at the Cannes Film Festival

This essay can be read in whole or in "hyperlink chapters".

day one - arrival

day two - serindipity is learned

day three - the day everything cool happens

day four - respite- escape from cannes

day five - Learning to mellow

day six - screenings and the fashion police

day seven - The last day. A day to be a tourist


cannes
Overlooking the French Riviera. The street and palm lined walks
are known as the Croisette. The Hotel on the right is The Carlton.

Every night as I was drifting off to sleep over the last weeks, I thought about how I would begin this essay. Something witty? Something with a catchy phrasing of words?
I have finally decided to say it as most succinctly as possible.
Cannes is Cannes.
There is nothing else in the world quite like it.
If you are in the business of making film, you should go to Cannes.
And now on to my experiences....

Day one

Tuesday May 14


    nice2
    Nice From The Air

    The flight to Nice was a pleasant flight; uninteresting unto itself except for the knowledge of the final destination. When Nice came into sight the level of excitement of course went up. As we descended toward the blue-green waters of the Mediterranean Sea, spots gradually shaped into sail boats and larger yachts and yet larger things you can’t call yachts and you can’t call ocean liners. Call them sick displays of sick amounts of money. We had arrived.

    panoramic shot of Nice




    Nice. (I didn't take this picture)

    The walk through customs in Nice was where the “film thing” began. Already we could see the women dressed in tight yellow or green pants and one button shirts talking film. I don’t know how it is for others but when I hear somebody talk about film making in a crowd of people, my heart always makes a quick little jump and I instantly listen a bit to the conversation. This was something that would quickly cease as not only does everyone talk about film making in Cannes during the festival, but the airport in Nice is fairly well crowded with “them” also.

    Customs check done... off to Cannes, a half hour or so drive. We stopped at the house where we were going to stay to put our luggage away. Promptly we were invited to sit down for some tea outside on a patio. Four or five cups of tea later, we started developing the buzz one gets when not having slept for 20 hours and having had way to much caffeine. Too soon, we were told “You must talk to your people and get the badge thing worked out..."

The Badge thing

    Shortly before I left for the Cannes Film Festival, I had been reading about it extensively. I hadn’t really planned on going to the festival until a week before I left, so pre planning wasn’t something that had been done properly. According to what I read, “you must have a badge in order to do anything at the festival or market. Without one, nothing will happen. You must get your badge two months in advance...Don’t leave the states without a badge...” Dire statements for someone with no badge. Now in Cannes I was going to try to get one. I had extra passport sized photos of myself taken while still in the U.S. to expedite anything that might happen and I had developed some line of patter as to why I needed a badge at this late date. With these and my business cards in hand, I nervously began the hunt for a badge. “Unifrance... go to unifrance.” So was the first advice... we explained to them that we needed badges and then received a day pass; in order to get into the areas where badges to get into the same areas were applied for. After walking up and down steps within the Palais countless times... waiting through lunch breaks, which in France are 12:00- 2:00... no exceptions period, filling out forms, explaining who we were and that we had a film in the market... we were given the final application for a badge. We opted for the free badge versus the badge that cost 400 francs. I never did figure out what the difference was and neither did the person explaining to me that one cost and one didn’t. I filled the last application out. At this point I hadn’t slept in about thirty hours, and the tea had taken serious effects on my muscles. I desperately filled out the application with the dexterity of a seven year old writing with a pen for the first time. It was so illegible (even though it was block print) that I couldn’t even read it. When the box for JOB TITLE was filled out, I broke into giggles that I couldn’t stop. I slowly scrawled out the word President (which I am of my company) and then looked at the entire application as a total work. My god... I would really wonder about this company if this is the way the president writes. I took out a business card and gave it to the woman typing the application and explained to her my condition. She didn’t care, making me think that film makers in general probably have very childish hand writing... maybe a job prerequisite.

    It turns out that now you don’t need to bring passport pictures or have them taken there by a photographer... once your application is typed into a computer, they stand you in front of a white wall and with a digital camera, take a computer scan of you which gets burned onto the badge. Pretty nifty except that the software on the computer warps the aspect ratio slightly, giving everyone a “troll from outer space look."

    The Troll from outer space Badge
    My Badge (notice the warping of the photo)

    With that, the badge was mine and now I was an official part of the “49eme FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DU FILM". FIRST NOTE; Getting a badge at Cannes was not that difficult. It took approximately three hours. Special note; this was on day 4 of the festival. After that, we went to the American Pavilion. This is part of a large white tent type setup where various countries set up their “home bases”. The American pavilion consisted of several companies and film commissions. The main room was for hanging out; consisting of a bar and lawn type furniture. Along one edge of the room was a series of computers for “web browsing”. The outside area of tables looked out to the walk, the beach and the sea were another great addition. This would become a type of home away from home during the festival. We ordered our first drinks and got our first shocking “welcome to the price of drinks in Cannes” wakeup. I heard drinks were expensive. I heard rumors. I thought they were exaggerations of reality. They were not. In the American pavilion a gin and tonic cost thirteen dollars. We would find out later that was cheap. Drinking to excess in Cannes is something you can only do when you are rich.

    Looking at the Carlton from the Croisette
    Looking at the Carlton from the Croisette

    After the drinks, we made our way to the Carlton. This is where our foreign distributor was located. We dropped by their office and said hello. We also made rough plans to get together on Thursday. This was exciting because I intended to pitch them my current project. As we left their office, which is two suites in the hotel, I noticed Troma down the hall. Troma is the company noted for such classics as Toxic Avenger and Sgt. Kabuki Man. It seemed like a party was going on in their offices. Maybe I would peek in at some point in the next six days.

    The first day finally hit us. We had to sleep... We made our way back to Le Cannet and to the house... and the beds.

Day Two
Wednesday May 15

    I’m at the Cannes film festival. Time to make things happen, shake it up, talk the talk, walk the walk, press the flesh... Ahh... maybe a little more sleep. The second time that I awoke, I got up. Flash forward one hour... last portion of the walk to the croisette. Now the big question; I am now at Cannes. Everybody who is involved in film in some way is here. How do I hook into that pipeline?
    We walked around trying to figure out where things were and if we recognized any faces. Of course the only faces we were likely to recognize would be those of stars so I suppose you could say that I was doing a bit of subconscious star gazing. Eventually we decided to go into our hard earned money and get a couple of drinks at the Majestic.170 (about 37 dollars) francs later we started drinking... slowly.In the course of this drink we had the opportunity to meet a fellow from CBS Fox video and watch an old pro table hop. Something about the big cigar and his swagger made it seem like he was cool, but when you get right down to it, he was doing the exact same thing we were... only not so delicately. I hoped then and now- sincerely- that I will not be forced to do the same thing when I am his age. After leaving that scene, we headed back to the American Pavilion to hang out and maybe get something to eat. While Marianne, went in search of one of the few bathrooms on the Croisette, I sat on a ledge, trying to look as if I was very important, waiting for someone equally important. (actually, just a joke) I noticed a photographer standing near me speaking on a cellular phone. Eventually he hung up and sat near. I had noticed that he was speaking English on the phone so I decided to say Hi...

    Mr. Cool hanging out for a moment on the French Riviera
    Near the American Pavilion. (aren't I cool??)

    "Hello" he replied.
    "How are you?" I asked.
    "Okay... Do you need something?"
    "No... " I replied. "I just heard an English voice so I thought I would say hi."
    That started a conversation that eventually led to his showing me various rolls of film he shot the days before... Pictures of Al Pacino... The Coen Brothers... The porno awards....I complimented him on his good photography (which it was) and then asked him (caricaturing slyness) if he had any info on parties. He answered by telling me that the big party... the Moving Pictures party was happening tomorrow. I asked him what it took to get in and he told me it was a matter of getting a ticket from the Moving Pictures company (the magazine). They were located on the negative 1st floor of the Noga Hilton. Excitedly (inside) I thanked him and then we went off as fast as we could in search of the Moving Pictures office.

    Trying to get tickets to the Moving Pictures Party.

    We got to the Noga Hilton and started our search for elevators that would lead down. When at first we didn't find them we thought, maybe it was a bum tip made by a photographer with a mean sense of humor. Soon enough though, we found a set of elevators which did lead down. We were not the only people on this elevator which was something that made us nervous.We made our way through a small hallway and arrived at the doors of THE PLACE. We entered what looked like a news room of sorts, with all kinds of craziness abounding. Evidently we were not the only people to have heard about this party as we heard many people begging and explaining why they should have tickets.

    A large, red headed woman sitting at the front desk was busy telling people, probably for the thousandth time that tickets were scarce and that they weren't really giving out any. This was not something I was happy to hear as I approached her. I began by saying that I wasn't going to take up more than a minute of her time and then started telling a story. I wasn't about to say that I heard about this party from some photographer on the street, so I told her that I had a feature film in the market and the distributor had turned me on to this party. Was there anything I could do at this late date. She asked me who the distributor was and I told her.
    "Well... it means something, but I am not the person to speak to for the Americans. You have to talk to Henry."
    I asked her if she could tell me where Henry was and after not seeing him in the room, she told me quickly what he looked like. She wasn't unfriendly but certainly wasn't an angel either. I guess Cannes had taken its toll on her in a less than agreeable fashion. I thanked her and we left.

    At this point I didn't have very high hopes for getting into this party. Plenty of people were leaving with the same annoyed/unhappy face as I, so I didn't feel completely out of place.We went to Curb Entertainment and got some screening tickets for a movie of theirs that was playing the next morning and then went to a bar to think about what we were going to do.We sat down to drink a couple beers. (thirteen dollar Budweiser bottles... good deal) It was a chance for me to moan about how I didn't think we had a chance. Marianne was much more upbeat, but realistically I didn't think it was going to happen. As we were sitting and talking, we struck up a conversation with a couple of girls and a guy, sitting next to us. At one point the guy and one of the girls got up and left. The remaining girl explained that this had been going on for the entire week and that he was an Arab and very possessive... She went on. She and her friend were obvious models and her conversation matched all expectations you have of a model talking. As she went on though, she mentioned that the guy was also (like us) in the movie business and that actually he had done some pretty big movies.

    Me mugging for the camera and looking at 35 mm film

    Mugging outside of the cafe where we drank with Mario Kassar and two models.
    (I'm looking at film from a projector in case you can't tell)

    "Oh?" I queried. Doesn't everyone here make movies was the thought. "Yeah" ... He and his brother... his name is Chris... something with a K.... Kaiser.... Krosser.... I don't know... but he did films like Fatal Attraction type things."Kassar?" I asked... "as in Mario Kassar?""Yeah... that's him..."Holy shit, I thought... when is he coming back? Screw these two bimbos. I want to talk to the guy.Eventually he returned and we traded numbers of the places we were staying and talked about maybe getting together away from the craziness of the festival... We never did get together but it was a classic case of never knowing who you might meet.
    Serendipity... That would be, and is, a key word to this festival. We went back to the Noga Hilton only to find that Henry still hadn't returned. We would try again tomorrow morning. My hopes for the party were getting bleaker by the moment. Around 10:30 or so I was in a pretty bad mood and our feet were in massive pain from the amount of walking we had done. We decided to head back to the house and call it a night. Five minutes or so into our walk, already a ways into the town of Cannes, we heard a boom followed by more.... Fireworks. Damn it... I would have like to have seen fireworks, I thought angrily.We kept walking, my mood getting increasingly worse.BOOM BOOM more fireworks.
    I turned around to see a bit of blue reflection in the sky followed by red. This show was starting to really get off the ground. Marianne asked if I wanted to go back. I said no and we kept on walking. The sounds of the fireworks driving me to an evil edge. Every time when it sounded like the grand finale... it would continue.DAMN DAMN DAMN!!!"Do you want to go back?" Marianne asked again.Again I said no.Twenty minutes later, as the show kept on going, I said yes. We turned around and headed back for the Croisette and the beach. I just kept mumbling something about being sure that when we got back it would be over. After all, it had already gone on for twenty minutes at full blast.We got to the edge of town and started seeing some fireworks, along with the sound. God they were beautiful.We got to the Croisette and kept watching them. We got to the beach... still they went.Finally we stood on the beach... the French Riviera and watched the most spectacular fireworks show I have seen. It went on and on... like one long grand finale. You could turn around and look at the hotels in the distance and up in the huge windows, see crowds of people... and then, when a large explosion of sparks and light would go off, see its reflection in the windows. Toward the end of the show, an overture by Phillip Glass (I think) began playing over a PA system that seemed to be wired throughout Cannes.I was standing on a Beach in Cannes, watching the most spectacular fireworks show happening over the Mediterranean Sea...What a ridiculous time for me to be in a bad mood.After the show ended, we decided that maybe we weren't that tired and that Cannes at night was really something we should be doing... experiencing. We also decided that since we had an early day tomorrow... a screening and an attempt to get tickets to an exclusive party, that we shouldn't make it a late night.We headed for the Majestic, which we heard was the place to be at night and entered the noisy and crowded bar. After getting our expensive drinks we headed out for the terrace and actually found a small table at which to sit. We talked to each other doing the "Cannes thing" of looking everywhere else for anyone that might be interesting and finally said hi to the fellows sitting next to us. Eventually we pulled our tables together and got drunk. The two men, from Britain, were in the midst of raising money for a feature film, their first, and after hearing about how I had done it two years before, really got into conversation. Over the course of the next few hours, people came and went from our tables, all of them film makers. One bizarre guy kept running around talking about how he couldn't talk about his project because it was too big. I don't expect to see a film from him anytime soon. Cliff (one of the Brits) offered to buy a round and after giving him a stunned look (we had talked about the price of booze) I accepted a gin and Tonic. I will have to return the favor at some point in the future. If at Cannes, one drink should suffice, anywhere else, seven drinks. It was an evening of surprising honesty for the most part, as they and we weren't trying to sell anything to each other... just talk about the trials and tribulations of the film making process. Later... around 1:45 AM, we decided it was time to go, we had an early day... We went back through the bar and saw the amusing sight that Cliff had mentioned earlier. Late at night you could always tell who was at Cannes on a company expense account. They would be the well dressed men and women hanging around the piano, singing silly songs at the top of their lungs...We headed back to the house after a long day of ups and downs... and to bed. Tomorrow would be an early day... A screening and the continued hunt for tickets to the biggest party of the festival....

    Continue to day 3